Dan HunterBraeSeiji YamamotoRyuGinRodrigo OliveiraMocotóDavid McMillan & Frédéric MorinJoe BeefSean BrockHuskMatt AbergelRōninWylie Dufresnewd~50Lau Chiu ShingFook Lam MoonAlice WatersChez Panisse RestaurantChristian PuglisiRelæMichael O’HareThe Man Behind the CurtainPascal BarbotAstranceMauro ColagrecoMirazurOlivier RoellingerLa table Le Coquillage at Les Maisons de BricourtTim RaueTim Raue
David ChangMomofuku Ssäm BarMassimiliano AlajmoLe CalandreRiccardo CamaniniRistorante Lido 84Hajime YonedaHAJIMETetsuya FujiwaraFujiya1935Wojciech Modest Amaroatelier AmaroPaul CunninghamHenne Kirkeby KroClare SmythCore by Clare SmythSimon RoganL'EnclumeAccursio CraparoAccursio RistoranteKelly WhitakerBastaVirgilio MartinezCentralRené RedzepiNomaDavid KinchManresaRoy ChoiL.A. Son
Dominique AnselDominique Ansel KitchenDaniel HummEleven Madison ParkDan BarberBlue Hill at Stone BarnsMartin PicardAu Pied de CochonTory McPhailCommander’s PalaceNathan MyhrvoldModernist CuisineBlaine WetzelThe Willows Inn on Lummi IslandGert De MangeleerHertog JanKobe DesramaultsIn de WulfPeter GoossensHof van CleveJames Knappett & Sandia ChangBubbledogsIsaac McHaleThe Clove ClubJason AthertonPollen Street SocialSat BainsRestaurant Sat BainsStephen HarrisThe Sportsman
Michel GuérardLes Prés d’Eugénie - Michel GuérardAlexandre GauthierLa GrenouillèreMatt OrlandoAmassAdeline Grattardyam’TchaHarald WohlfahrtRestaurant Schwarzwaldstube at Hotel Traube TonbachHans HaasTantrisAlex SanchezThe TableNiko RomitoRistorante RealeGennaro EspositoTorre del SaracinoMassimo BotturaOsteria FrancescanaHisato NakahigashiMiyamasouHiroshi SasakiGion SasakiChristophe HardiquestBon BonByung Jin KimGaonEsben Holmboe BangMaaemo
Gastón AcurioLa MarAlbert AdriàTicketsCarme RuscalledaSant PauAndoni Luis AdurizMugaritzJuan Mari & Elena ArzakArzakPetter NilssonSpritmuseumAndreas CaminadaSchloss SchauensteinLanshu ChenLe Moût RestaurantDavid ThompsonNahmMehmet GürsMiklaAlex Hozven and Kevin FarleyThe Cultured Pickle ShopBryant TerryAfro-Vegan, Vegan Soul KitchenTanya HollandBrown Sugar KitchenJames SyhaboutCommisThomas HaasThomas Haas
Cecilia ChiangThe MandarinAnthony MyintThe PerennialDaniel PattersonCoiChristopher KostowThe Restaurant At MeadowoodChad RobertsonTartineDan GiustiBrigaidThomas KellerThe French LaundryCarlo MirarchiBlancaSven ElverfeldAqua at The Ritz CarltonDaniel BouludDanielRichard EkkebusAmberAnn Redding and Matt DanzerUncle BoonsAnita LoAnnisaChris ShepherdUnderbellyJoshua McFaddenAva Gene’s
Cassidee DabneyThe Barn at Blackberry FarmPeter GilmoreQuayNormand LapriseToqué!Sven ChartierSaturneDong ZhenxiangDa DongDan HunterBraeSeiji YamamotoRyuGinRodrigo OliveiraMocotóDavid McMillan & Frédéric MorinJoe BeefSean BrockHuskMatt AbergelRōninWylie Dufresnewd~50Lau Chiu ShingFook Lam MoonAlice WatersChez Panisse RestaurantChristian PuglisiRelæ
Michael O’HareThe Man Behind the CurtainPascal BarbotAstranceMauro ColagrecoMirazurOlivier RoellingerLa table Le Coquillage at Les Maisons de BricourtTim RaueTim RaueDavid ChangMomofuku Ssäm BarMassimiliano AlajmoLe CalandreRiccardo CamaniniRistorante Lido 84Hajime YonedaHAJIMETetsuya FujiwaraFujiya1935Wojciech Modest Amaroatelier AmaroPaul CunninghamHenne Kirkeby KroClare SmythCore by Clare SmythSimon RoganL'EnclumeAccursio CraparoAccursio Ristorante
Kelly WhitakerBastaVirgilio MartinezCentralRené RedzepiNomaDavid KinchManresaRoy ChoiL.A. SonDominique AnselDominique Ansel KitchenDaniel HummEleven Madison ParkDan BarberBlue Hill at Stone BarnsMartin PicardAu Pied de CochonTory McPhailCommander’s PalaceNathan MyhrvoldModernist CuisineBlaine WetzelThe Willows Inn on Lummi IslandGert De MangeleerHertog JanKobe DesramaultsIn de WulfPeter GoossensHof van Cleve
James Knappett & Sandia ChangBubbledogsIsaac McHaleThe Clove ClubJason AthertonPollen Street SocialSat BainsRestaurant Sat BainsStephen HarrisThe SportsmanMichel GuérardLes Prés d’Eugénie - Michel GuérardAlexandre GauthierLa GrenouillèreMatt OrlandoAmassAdeline Grattardyam’TchaHarald WohlfahrtRestaurant Schwarzwaldstube at Hotel Traube TonbachHans HaasTantrisAlex SanchezThe TableNiko RomitoRistorante RealeGennaro EspositoTorre del SaracinoMassimo BotturaOsteria Francescana
Hisato NakahigashiMiyamasouHiroshi SasakiGion SasakiChristophe HardiquestBon BonByung Jin KimGaonEsben Holmboe BangMaaemoGastón AcurioLa MarAlbert AdriàTicketsCarme RuscalledaSant PauAndoni Luis AdurizMugaritzJuan Mari & Elena ArzakArzakPetter NilssonSpritmuseumAndreas CaminadaSchloss SchauensteinLanshu ChenLe Moût RestaurantDavid ThompsonNahmMehmet GürsMikla
Alex Hozven and Kevin FarleyThe Cultured Pickle ShopBryant TerryAfro-Vegan, Vegan Soul KitchenTanya HollandBrown Sugar KitchenJames SyhaboutCommisThomas HaasThomas HaasCecilia ChiangThe MandarinAnthony MyintThe PerennialDaniel PattersonCoiChristopher KostowThe Restaurant At MeadowoodChad RobertsonTartineDan GiustiBrigaidThomas KellerThe French LaundryCarlo MirarchiBlancaSven ElverfeldAqua at The Ritz CarltonDaniel BouludDaniel
Richard EkkebusAmberAnn Redding and Matt DanzerUncle BoonsAnita LoAnnisaChris ShepherdUnderbellyJoshua McFaddenAva Gene’sCassidee DabneyThe Barn at Blackberry FarmPeter GilmoreQuayNormand LapriseToqué!Sven ChartierSaturneDong ZhenxiangDa DongDan HunterBraeSeiji YamamotoRyuGinRodrigo OliveiraMocotóDavid McMillan & Frédéric MorinJoe BeefSean BrockHusk
Matt AbergelRōninWylie Dufresnewd~50Lau Chiu ShingFook Lam MoonAlice WatersChez Panisse RestaurantChristian PuglisiRelæMichael O’HareThe Man Behind the CurtainPascal BarbotAstranceMauro ColagrecoMirazurOlivier RoellingerLa table Le Coquillage at Les Maisons de BricourtTim RaueTim RaueDavid ChangMomofuku Ssäm BarMassimiliano AlajmoLe CalandreRiccardo CamaniniRistorante Lido 84Hajime YonedaHAJIMETetsuya FujiwaraFujiya1935
Wojciech Modest Amaroatelier AmaroPaul CunninghamHenne Kirkeby KroClare SmythCore by Clare SmythSimon RoganL'EnclumeAccursio CraparoAccursio RistoranteKelly WhitakerBastaVirgilio MartinezCentralRené RedzepiNomaDavid KinchManresaRoy ChoiL.A. SonDominique AnselDominique Ansel KitchenDaniel HummEleven Madison ParkDan BarberBlue Hill at Stone BarnsMartin PicardAu Pied de CochonTory McPhailCommander’s Palace
Nathan MyhrvoldModernist CuisineBlaine WetzelThe Willows Inn on Lummi IslandGert De MangeleerHertog JanKobe DesramaultsIn de WulfPeter GoossensHof van CleveJames Knappett & Sandia ChangBubbledogsIsaac McHaleThe Clove ClubJason AthertonPollen Street SocialSat BainsRestaurant Sat BainsStephen HarrisThe SportsmanMichel GuérardLes Prés d’Eugénie - Michel GuérardAlexandre GauthierLa GrenouillèreMatt OrlandoAmassAdeline Grattardyam’TchaHarald WohlfahrtRestaurant Schwarzwaldstube at Hotel Traube Tonbach
Hans HaasTantrisAlex SanchezThe TableNiko RomitoRistorante RealeGennaro EspositoTorre del SaracinoMassimo BotturaOsteria FrancescanaHisato NakahigashiMiyamasouHiroshi SasakiGion SasakiChristophe HardiquestBon BonByung Jin KimGaonEsben Holmboe BangMaaemoGastón AcurioLa MarAlbert AdriàTicketsCarme RuscalledaSant PauAndoni Luis AdurizMugaritzJuan Mari & Elena ArzakArzak
Petter NilssonSpritmuseumAndreas CaminadaSchloss SchauensteinLanshu ChenLe Moût RestaurantDavid ThompsonNahmMehmet GürsMiklaAlex Hozven and Kevin FarleyThe Cultured Pickle ShopBryant TerryAfro-Vegan, Vegan Soul KitchenTanya HollandBrown Sugar KitchenJames SyhaboutCommisThomas HaasThomas HaasCecilia ChiangThe MandarinAnthony MyintThe PerennialDaniel PattersonCoiChristopher KostowThe Restaurant At MeadowoodChad RobertsonTartine
Dan GiustiBrigaidThomas KellerThe French LaundryCarlo MirarchiBlancaSven ElverfeldAqua at The Ritz CarltonDaniel BouludDanielRichard EkkebusAmberAnn Redding and Matt DanzerUncle BoonsAnita LoAnnisaChris ShepherdUnderbellyJoshua McFaddenAva Gene’sCassidee DabneyThe Barn at Blackberry FarmPeter GilmoreQuayNormand LapriseToqué!Sven ChartierSaturneDong ZhenxiangDa Dong
Dan HunterBraeSeiji YamamotoRyuGinRodrigo OliveiraMocotóDavid McMillan & Frédéric MorinJoe BeefSean BrockHuskMatt AbergelRōninWylie Dufresnewd~50Lau Chiu ShingFook Lam MoonAlice WatersChez Panisse RestaurantChristian PuglisiRelæMichael O’HareThe Man Behind the CurtainPascal BarbotAstranceMauro ColagrecoMirazurOlivier RoellingerLa table Le Coquillage at Les Maisons de BricourtTim RaueTim Raue
David ChangMomofuku Ssäm BarMassimiliano AlajmoLe CalandreRiccardo CamaniniRistorante Lido 84Hajime YonedaHAJIMETetsuya FujiwaraFujiya1935Wojciech Modest Amaroatelier AmaroPaul CunninghamHenne Kirkeby KroClare SmythCore by Clare SmythSimon RoganL'EnclumeAccursio CraparoAccursio RistoranteKelly WhitakerBastaVirgilio MartinezCentralRené RedzepiNomaDavid KinchManresaRoy ChoiL.A. Son
Dominique AnselDominique Ansel KitchenDaniel HummEleven Madison ParkDan BarberBlue Hill at Stone BarnsMartin PicardAu Pied de CochonTory McPhailCommander’s PalaceNathan MyhrvoldModernist CuisineBlaine WetzelThe Willows Inn on Lummi IslandGert De MangeleerHertog JanKobe DesramaultsIn de WulfPeter GoossensHof van CleveJames Knappett & Sandia ChangBubbledogsIsaac McHaleThe Clove ClubJason AthertonPollen Street SocialSat BainsRestaurant Sat BainsStephen HarrisThe Sportsman
Michel GuérardLes Prés d’Eugénie - Michel GuérardAlexandre GauthierLa GrenouillèreMatt OrlandoAmassAdeline Grattardyam’TchaHarald WohlfahrtRestaurant Schwarzwaldstube at Hotel Traube TonbachHans HaasTantrisAlex SanchezThe TableNiko RomitoRistorante RealeGennaro EspositoTorre del SaracinoMassimo BotturaOsteria FrancescanaHisato NakahigashiMiyamasouHiroshi SasakiGion SasakiChristophe HardiquestBon BonByung Jin KimGaonEsben Holmboe BangMaaemo
Gastón AcurioLa MarAlbert AdriàTicketsCarme RuscalledaSant PauAndoni Luis AdurizMugaritzJuan Mari & Elena ArzakArzakPetter NilssonSpritmuseumAndreas CaminadaSchloss SchauensteinLanshu ChenLe Moût RestaurantDavid ThompsonNahmMehmet GürsMiklaAlex Hozven and Kevin FarleyThe Cultured Pickle ShopBryant TerryAfro-Vegan, Vegan Soul KitchenTanya HollandBrown Sugar KitchenJames SyhaboutCommisThomas HaasThomas Haas
Cecilia ChiangThe MandarinAnthony MyintThe PerennialDaniel PattersonCoiChristopher KostowThe Restaurant At MeadowoodChad RobertsonTartineDan GiustiBrigaidThomas KellerThe French LaundryCarlo MirarchiBlancaSven ElverfeldAqua at The Ritz CarltonDaniel BouludDanielRichard EkkebusAmberAnn Redding and Matt DanzerUncle BoonsAnita LoAnnisaChris ShepherdUnderbellyJoshua McFaddenAva Gene’s
Cassidee DabneyThe Barn at Blackberry FarmPeter GilmoreQuayNormand LapriseToqué!Sven ChartierSaturneDong ZhenxiangDa DongDan HunterBraeSeiji YamamotoRyuGinRodrigo OliveiraMocotóDavid McMillan & Frédéric MorinJoe BeefSean BrockHuskMatt AbergelRōninWylie Dufresnewd~50Lau Chiu ShingFook Lam MoonAlice WatersChez Panisse RestaurantChristian PuglisiRelæ
Michael O’HareThe Man Behind the CurtainPascal BarbotAstranceMauro ColagrecoMirazurOlivier RoellingerLa table Le Coquillage at Les Maisons de BricourtTim RaueTim RaueDavid ChangMomofuku Ssäm BarMassimiliano AlajmoLe CalandreRiccardo CamaniniRistorante Lido 84Hajime YonedaHAJIMETetsuya FujiwaraFujiya1935Wojciech Modest Amaroatelier AmaroPaul CunninghamHenne Kirkeby KroClare SmythCore by Clare SmythSimon RoganL'EnclumeAccursio CraparoAccursio Ristorante
Kelly WhitakerBastaVirgilio MartinezCentralRené RedzepiNomaDavid KinchManresaRoy ChoiL.A. SonDominique AnselDominique Ansel KitchenDaniel HummEleven Madison ParkDan BarberBlue Hill at Stone BarnsMartin PicardAu Pied de CochonTory McPhailCommander’s PalaceNathan MyhrvoldModernist CuisineBlaine WetzelThe Willows Inn on Lummi IslandGert De MangeleerHertog JanKobe DesramaultsIn de WulfPeter GoossensHof van Cleve
James Knappett & Sandia ChangBubbledogsIsaac McHaleThe Clove ClubJason AthertonPollen Street SocialSat BainsRestaurant Sat BainsStephen HarrisThe SportsmanMichel GuérardLes Prés d’Eugénie - Michel GuérardAlexandre GauthierLa GrenouillèreMatt OrlandoAmassAdeline Grattardyam’TchaHarald WohlfahrtRestaurant Schwarzwaldstube at Hotel Traube TonbachHans HaasTantrisAlex SanchezThe TableNiko RomitoRistorante RealeGennaro EspositoTorre del SaracinoMassimo BotturaOsteria Francescana
Hisato NakahigashiMiyamasouHiroshi SasakiGion SasakiChristophe HardiquestBon BonByung Jin KimGaonEsben Holmboe BangMaaemoGastón AcurioLa MarAlbert AdriàTicketsCarme RuscalledaSant PauAndoni Luis AdurizMugaritzJuan Mari & Elena ArzakArzakPetter NilssonSpritmuseumAndreas CaminadaSchloss SchauensteinLanshu ChenLe Moût RestaurantDavid ThompsonNahmMehmet GürsMikla

David Chang, Momofuku Ssäm Bar

New York City

“I know my place in the whole culinary world. I’m a classicist at heart. The only reason we carved out this niche is that there was no room for me there. I had to find another path.”

Many traits of today’s hybrid casual-fine dining restaurant model can be traced back to tastemaker David Chang and the Momofuku empire. In reaction to the conventions of fine dining, he applied ambitious execution to traditionally lowbrow dishes, injecting umami-filled Asian flavors laced with irreverence. The offshoot epicurean journal Lucky Peach has become an authoritative resource for culinary storytelling and space for candid discussions about the food industry.

Spicy Pork Sausage & Rice Cakes  (2007)

From Lucky Peach Issue 15. Copyright Lucky Peach, May 2015.

“In 2006 mapo tofu was pretty much the only food I was eating. I’d pick it up from Grand Sichuan, which had just opened on St. Marks Place, and eat it at Ssäm Bar, which was just getting going at the time.

“Joshua McFadden was in the kitchen then—he had been staging at Del Posto before joining up. If this were a music documentary about the creation of a hit song instead of a popular dish, he would have been the person who came up with the beat. He combined a Sichuan chili sauce with a mix of Italian ragu ingredients. I remember him struggling at the time; he wanted to contribute. And it was right there: I remember tasting it and being like, Holy shit, this guy just did a Chinese ragu.

“And then everybody started to chime in. Tim Maslow was like, Oh, we need some texture, and then the fried shallots went on top. And then I was like, We should add the whipped tofu as a kind of dairy-like component. (We always had leftover whipped tofu around because no one was buying our burritos, which used it.) And then it dawned on me: Oh shit, this is mapo tofu, and it went on the menu. Without everybody’s parts in it, it never would have happened.”

ssambar.momofuku.com

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